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This is a pretty time consuming job, but if you do it yourself you'll save a bundle on money!



  • Glycerin [I found pure glycerin at the grocery store in the band aid aisle]
  • Permatex RTV Silicone
  • Some angled box wrenches [mainly 10mm and 13mm]
  • Small Boxes, tins or the like to put all the bolts, nuts and caps in
  • Assortment sized Ratchets
  • Assortment of sockets [mainly 10mm and 13mm]
  • A Torque Wrench
  • T25 Torx Bit
  • Valve Cover Paint of your Choice [I used G2 Valve Cover Paint, it has held up great for 14K miles]
Please Click On Any Picture Below To Enlarge That Picture.
First disconnect the negative battery feed in the trunk, then remove the acoustic cover.  Push these 4 plugs in and pop the cover loose:
Here’s what it looks like with the cover removed, pretty dirty:
Now take a flat head screwdriver, pop these little covers off and remove the 10mm bolts that hold the covers on:
Now that the covers are removed you’ll be staring at the bremi coils and below those bremi coils are the spark plugs.  So first things first, remove the plugs that sit on top of the bremi coils.  To do this simply slide the metal tab with your flat head screwdriver and pull them off:
Now we’re ready to remove all the connections.  I labeled everything by naming it on masking tape, wrapping the name tag on the connector, and then labeling where it plugged in on that particular part.  Anal, yes, but it will save a ton of time later when you can’t remember what plugged where, a lot of these plugs look alike.  Oh, I also tapped over each plugs end because some of the plugs have little gaskets in then that can fall out.  Also remove the MAF and intake tube leading to front of intake:

And now you need to remove the clips that hold the electrical boxes on.  These are a PITA, and I won’t deny that, but I used a long O-Ring pick and was able to remove them with only a bit of trouble.  I had great luck working from the inside of the electrical boxes.  You need to unhook the back sides of the clip and there are 4 on each side and they connect to the fuel injectors.  There are 4 on each side, don’t drop or lose any on these!

Once the clips are off and you've got the boxes loose, lift the boxes up and let them rest on the intake manifold:

Alright, now we’re moving onto the Valve Cover Gaskets!  Label and remove the bremi coils, 2 Nuts each and then pop them out:
Here’s a little oil pooling.  I’m sure these could have waited a little longer but why not just get it done when I was tearing everything else apart.  If you don’t plan on changing your spark plugs you can just leave them in:
Start removing the “Caps” and bolts on the valve covers.  There are 8 of the cap style nuts and 3 bolts per side.  For most of them you can use a ratchet / socket, but for some of the hard to reach ones I used my angled box wrench:
Once you have all the caps and bolts out begin to work the valve covers off.  I’m going to be completely honest here and tell you it is a BITCH.  I grabbed the oil cap and had my car rocking back and forth, then I put my feet on the wall next to my car and pushed like hell….Finally, I was able to break the passenger side corner valve cover loose and then peel it the rest if the way.  The driver side was exactly the same.  I repeat, these valve covers are an absolute PITA to remove.  HINT?  Take a flat head screwdriver and insert in one of the top sturdy corners and pop them loose, then use your hands to remove the cover:
Passenger side off, clean though huh….100K and it looks great to me!  No Sludge:
Another shot, no sludge because of timely oil changes with full synthetic oil:
….and another:
Now remove the Driver side same thing as passenger side, remove all 8 nuts and 3 bolts, then pull the bremi coils out:
You can see a little oil here to:
Again the driver side is the same as the passenger side, loosen 8 caps and 3 bolts and work it like hell:
Once you get the valve cover loose detach the positive battery feed. T-25 torx if I remember correctly.   I wrapped it up in a towel, tapped it and set it aside just for safety.  Do not let it touch metal, wrap it up in a towel and tape it!!!:
No sludge here either!:
Pretty clean for 100K:
Close up, and I put shop towels just to make sure no crap fell down in the plug area:
Now that the valve covers are off, time to paint them.  I chose the G2 engine paint kit.  Hope it holds up ok!:
Here’s what the kit has inside.  I got lucky because the kit says minimum 55 degrees maximum 70 degrees for application:
First thing is first, knock out the bolts.  I matched up a socket, put it in and knocked it with a hammer.  Do all 11 this way, the washer and rubber grommets come out much easier than these 3 bolts:
Hammer shot:
Now peel the old gaskets out:
Gasket is out and they don’t look to bad:
Pull out the middle gasket, again this one doesn’t look too bad either.  I took a 600 grit wet / dry sand paper and prepped all the grooves for the new gaskets.  Basically I sanded them down smoothly without working it too hard.  They turned out real smooth and clean, I didn’t feel the need for sand blasting or bead blasting:
Now time to prep for paint.  First I cleaned everything with the engine cleaner, then lightly sanded all the rough areas and scuffed up the rest.  I also tapped of the bottom so paint wouldn’t get on my nicely cleaned surface for the new gaskets.  Follow G2’s instructions that come with the kit:
Here are the valve cover caps, washers and bolts.  I did thoroughly clean each one:
Painted, this is after the third coat.  I put 4 coats with a final touch up coat.  They turned out really well, but the camera doesn’t do them justice as they are a darker blue similar to blue in the BMW roundel:
When reinstalling the valve covers you have to use new rubber grommets.  To get the old ones of I just snipped them in half and then slid the new rubber grommets on:
When putting the new valve cover gaskets on coat them with glycerin.   I put a small dab in the palm of my hand and ran the gaskets through the palm of my hand to coat them.  The glycerin makes it very easy to slide them around to get them seated properly.  You also need to use the Permatex RTV Silicone and put a small amount in various spots.  Here’s a shot from the TIS manual on where to put the beads of silicone:
Now when installing the valve covers you want to try and get them in place without moving them around too much, because you don’t want the silicone to shift and thus becoming ineffective.  I put the valve covers on and seated them without too much trouble at all.  Here are the valve covers installed and bolted / torque’d down!  I worked from the inside out tightening them, just as the TIS says to tighten:
Passenger side valve cover on, seated properly and all tightened down:
Now that both of the valve covers are on it’s time to move onto the spark plugs if your plan on changing those.  After removing my spark plugs you can see a bit more oil pooling, glad I did this now!:
Here’s a close up of the pooling oil.  The pooling at the plugs was mainly isolated to the driver side 2 plugs closest to the firewall:
Here’s another close up:
After putting the plugs in and torqueing properly, reinstall the bremi Coil packs the same way you took them off:
Now it’s time to put these electrical boxes back on.  Swing them back over, and line up the connectors the sit on the side of the fuel injectors.  Take your time, make sure all the locking clips are where they are supposed to be, line them up properly and “snap” them in place.  You will be able to hear and audible click when they lock in place:
Now that we have those in place, it’s time to put the connectors back on the coils.   These are easy, they just fit over top, slide down and lock in place with the metal slider that’s on the coil.  If you are replacing the cover gaskets you see here, now is the time to put them in place.  I replaced mine, so these are the new ones.  Finally put the black covers back on and wrench them down, no torque spec for the covers:
Wipe everything down with your favorite cleaner, I prefer Mother’s Back to Black for all the black items.  It works wonders and smells really good:
Couple more pics, again these pics don’t do justice to valve covers.  It is a darker blue and look freakin’ awesome:
Close up:
Ok last one, here’s a close up without the flash.  This kind of captures the darker blue color:

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