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Wow is pretty much what I think, kick ass exhaust here.  Enclosed will give you a glimpse of the install it was really pretty easy with minimal tools required.  Here’s what I used, YMMV:

  • 3/8” Ratchet

  • 12MM Box Wrench

  • 4, 5 and 6 MM Hex Key or Socket [I prefer sockets]

  • For the Arrow Exhaust install you'll also need a 13 MM socket

  • Rubber Mallet

Please Click On Any Picture Below To Enlarge That Picture.
Sweet box huh, lol….:
Unpacked………Getting bored yet?:
Pic of the can:
Ok, now let’s get started.  First I weighed it all, mounting bolts, washers, everything and it only weighs 5 lbs 5.8 ounces with the DB killer in.  Pretty light!:
Now I’ll take the DB Killer out.  You can just use needle nose pliers if you don’t have snap ring pliers:
Then I put the end of a broom stick in the other end of the can and pushed the DB Killer out, thanks Cloak!:
Now that the DB Killer is out I weighed it, not a significant difference in weight of the overall total shown above:
Now let’s get the stock can off.  First remove the three push clips located at the front and underside of the lower fairing.  The arrow shows one and the circles show the approximate location of the other two:
Now remove these three 4MM hex head bolts:
Now the tricky part!  Pull the bottom of the lower fairing out and then work it loose from this hook.  Don’t get crazy with it, take your time ‘cause I doubt you want to break anything:
Ok, now move on to the other side and remove it.  You might be able to get away with only removing the exhaust side, but I just remove both as they are easy enough to remove:
Ok, I looked under and even with the amount of tools I have I found that it was going to be a real PITA to get at the two bolts holding the stock exhaust on so I remove the rear-set and tied it up.  If you remove this be careful with it as the rear brake line and such are attached.  Remove these hex head bolts, the three listed as  number one are 6MM and the one listed number 2 is 5MM:
Now remove the stock exhaust clamp, 12MM:
Now behind the rear set you can see the two bolts for the exhaust mount.  These are also 12MM, but the one to the farthest left in the pic runs all the way over and has a nut that also needs to be held.  See next pic:
Over here, sorry for the dark pic but you should be able to locate it, this nut is also 12MM.  I used a box wrench to fish through and hold the nut while loosening the bolt:
Ok, it should be ready to come off.  You can try and pull it off  if you feel strong, but I just took a rubber mallet and lightly tapped the exhaust like so.  I staggered the taps on each side of the clamp.  Space is tight between the exhaust and wheel, but it will fit for removal:
Now it’s time to put the new can on [Arrow Exhaust].  First I put the mounting clamp where the stock mounts are.  Then I took to rubber mallet and lightly tapped the end of the can near the wheel to get it on.  Then I put the clamp and barely tightened it, you want to have enough play to be able to twist the can for adjustment:
Here you can see the mounting bracket that came with the Arrow Exhaust.  Now fit the mounting ring over the exhaust and thread the nut just a few turns:
Finally get the can twisted and tweaked the way you would like it to be.  For me it was important to have it tucked up nice and tight.  I accomplished that after a few cuss words.:
Now put the rear-set back on, verify the can is exactly where you want it and then tighten the clamp and finally the mounting ring: 
Now take off the protective paper on the Arrow logo, start it up and just listen………………………………………………..Now check for any leaks and reassemble the lower fairings:
It sounds FREAKIN’ AWESOME!!!!!!:
………And looks GREAT!!!!:
Oh, what the weight on the stock exhaust?  Check it out:
Here's a video of how the exhaust sounds, turn up the volume:                

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