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The Handle Bars are a pretty easy swap.  Minimal tools required and I don’t remember all the sizes, but here’s a glimpse of what you’ll need:

  • Ratchet

  • Torque Wrench

  • Sockets

  • Hex Keys or Hex Sockets [I prefer sockets]

  • Phillips Head Screwdriver

  • Loc-Tite Blue

  • Grip Glue or Hairspray

  • Canned Air or Air Compressor

Please Click On Any Picture Below To Enlarge That Picture.
Let’s get started, first remove the stock bar ends.  You might find this bolt hard to crack loose because there is loc-tite red on the threads.  After you crack the bolt loose they will just unscrew and come off:
Now take the clamps off for the clutch and brake sides, these simply unscrew.  I recommend putting some towels on your upper fairings so you won’t get any unwanted scratches.  The clutch side will dangle, but the brake side won’t go too far as it has wires that are tied to the throttle assembly:
Now unscrew these two Phillips head screws on the clutch side and take the casing apart to remove:
Ok, here’s what it should look like.  I’m installing new grips so I did not have to worry about removing the left [clutch] side grip, BUT if you plan on re-using your stock grips now is the time to remove them.  To remove the grip take the nozzle that comes with your canned air and ram it in between the grip and bar, then  put your hand over the grip above the nozzle to trap in the air and as you shoot the air pull like mad to remove.  The other option, which is what I used, is use your air compressor with a nozzle to shoot air under the grip in the same manner just described.  Like I said, I used my air compressor and it worked great!:
Now move to the throttle side and ONLY LOOSEN these Phillips head screws enough for the pin to clear the hole in the bar.  Once loose work the casing apart and leave it be for now!   Again, if you’re gonna’ re-use the stock grips just leave it alone.  If you’re gonna’ swap grips you can either remove the grips BEFORE loosening the casing OR swap them out after the transfer.  I swapped my throttle side grip out AFTER the throttle assembly transfer to the new bars:
OK, now we’re ready to remove the old bars.  You need to remove the 4 bolts shown here and numbered one, then just for reference you can see how number two is ONLY loose.  Number two is only loose because after you remove the bolts and clamp for the handle bars you can simply lift the bars up and slide the throttle assembly off which IMO makes it easier when reassembling.  There is a pin inside the throttle assembly [casing] that you need to make sure is out of the bar before yanking on the assembly to remove.  The pin serves as an alignment tool, and the Sport Bars V2 has a hole drilled for you already:
So here’s where we stand.  DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT take your bike for a test ride now.  LOL, J.  You can see the towels I placed on the upper fairings to avoid any unwanted damage.  Oh, and you don’t need to remove the windscreen, mine is remove because this was one of my mod days and I was fitting frame sliders and a ZG DB Short screen:

Now let’s put the new bars on with the hardware that come with the new bars. 

  • First take the handle bar clamp and install it, number one in the pic, I used loc-tite blue on all four of these bolts. 

  • Second take the left side bar and insert it, but DO NOT tighten the ‘’clamp’’ bolts yet, then get the left [clutch] side back together by properly installing the casing and clutch. 

  • Third work on right [throttle] side, for the right side I had the best luck sliding the bar in, then sliding it down and into the throttle sleeve / assembly, fit the pin from the casing into the hole in the bar and then assemble the brake lever.

  • Make sure you take care and line up the “pin” from the throttle and clutch side housing [casing].  The let [clutch] side is easy, but the right [throttle] side can be a bit frustrating!  

***Use the directions that came with the Sport Bars V2 to measure and determine which bar fits which side.  Also use the directions that came with the sport bars to put the bar end bolts together that come with the bars.***  This sounds like a mouth full and it is, but pics were minimal as you definitely need two hands to accomplish it.  Now once you have everything adjusted the way you want it you can tighten the bars up by the bolts noted as 2 and 3 in the pic to the right:

If you are swapping grips and you didn’t remove the right [throttle] side now is the time to take off the old grip using the technique listed above in the earlier step.  If you are putting brand new grips on they are fairly simple to install.  You can use hairspray to lube the new grip or griplock as pictured below.  I used griplock, if your new grips don’t have holes at the end measure them up and cut a hole in the end, then take the griplock a squeeze some on the inside of the grip, use your finger to smooth it around and then slide the grip on the bar and throttle sleeve.  Once the grip is one rotate the grip to where you want it to be and leave the grip alone for the time specified with their instructions:
Now, your mileage may vary but at a full left turn my brake line was hitting the instrument cluster housing.  I did not want to mark up the housing, so I flipped the brake line around.  To do this you need brake fluid, brake bleeder bottle and a 10MM open or box end wrench.  IF YOU ARE NOT comfortable bleeding brakes, DO NOT – I REPEAT DO NOT DO THIS, period end of discussion!  I’m not covering brake bleeding, but this is the brake line and banjo bolt:
And here’s a brake bleeder bottle.  You can use a single line [see arrow] and bleed one caliper at a time:
Or you can use a double line adapter and bleed both lines at the same time.  FWIW, I find it works best to do one caliper at a time.  I think you get a much tighter feel at the brake lever:
Ok now you reassembled everything, put your old or new grips on and put your old or new bar ends on.  Looks good huh!:
And a closer shot of the bars:
And a close up of my new grips with stock bar ends:

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