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So I installed the Soundgate DSP / AUX 3 a long, long time ago….At the time I really had one purpose and that was to install an iPod.  Well I did that and mounted the switch in the trunk, until I decided it was time for expansion.  I did have XM since I bought the car [installed within 2 days of purchase] which was FM modulated….well after much thought, and not much use of the XM, I decided to hook it up through the extra port I have available….Then came the DVD Changer for the TVonNAV.  So when I decided to do that I needed to get the switch up front somewhere…

The first part was to get my parts, the blank switch cover is actually from an X-5 [yeh, they offer a blank cover] and the second was to find 3 way rocker.  The 3 way Rocker proved to be a challenge without a big minimum, but I found 1, errr 2 online, yep I bought 2 just in case. 

I did this in two parts, first I ran the cables from the trunk to rear seat and then later I tied them together and finished the run to the front cabin.  This is what happens when you think you have enough time to squeeze something in and run out of time.


  • Wire
  • Toggle Switch
  • Heat Shrink
  • Push On Wire Terminals
  • Zip-Ties
  • Electrical Tape
  • Can't Find Part Number Right Now - 1 Blank Cover for an X5 over head panel


  • Soldering Iron
  • 10mm Socket
  • T-25 Torx Bit
  • Ratchet
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • Pry Tools
  • Dremel or Similar
  • Heat Gun
  • Drill if you want to twist wires fast and easy
  • Navigation Removal Pins, if you have Navigation [coat hangers work great]
Please Click On Any Picture Below To Enlarge That Picture.
Ok getting the wires from the trunk to the rear seat is actually pretty easy.  Just pull the cover from the electronics area, then fish the wires around and in the cabin from the trunk.  To get started remove the bench portion of the seat.  It’s pretty simple, just pull up at these points:
Hook the wires up to whatever accessory you need to in the trunk and run them behind the panel covers in the trunk:
Then there’s a nice little flat in the middle of the seat backs under the rear seat:
Take a flathead screwdriver and remove the plastic bolts that hold this harness cover down:
And tuck your wires underneath it.  Here’s where I clipped the wires, rolled them up, stopped, and waited for another day:
Ok, time to finish.  Yeah I had to pull the seat again and then move onto removing the rear lower trim kick panel.  10 mm Bolt:
Then pop the trim off:
Tuck the wires down near the factory harness.  You can tape or zip-tie them to it if you want:
Now we need to get to the rest of the wiring, making your own wiring harness J…Put the wires in the end of the drill and tie the other end off:
Like so, and then run the drill on a slow speed:
Tape up the ends up before releasing either end, then tape the middle in various increments and get this:
Now I’m going to move to the front and start bringing the wires to the back.  First thing was to get the blank cover ready for the toggle switch.  Ready to Dremel it!
With various bits, sanders and cutting wheels I was able to carve it out.  You’ll get it done with something else I’m sure, but I found the dremel worked awesome:
Now let’s try and finish this up!!!  I chose to mount the 3 port switch UP TOP… Take the panel out and make your cut for the blank plate / new toggle switch plate…..I chose to re-mount the microphone so I had to and cut a new spot for the microphone, then I put the toggle switch in the microphone’s old spot.  Pop out the lights and panel:
Then the panel:
Unhook all the existing wires and take it to the work bench.  You can see where I put the toggle switch, so you’ll need to measure and cutout a whole for the microphone.  Do yourself a favor and just cut an “X” in the fabric so you can pull it back and glue it down.  Just as you see in the cutout on the right in this photo:
Cut your hole, like previously mentioned, it may take a little while to get it perfect.  I used my dremel and then start running the wires.  Run it through the headliner and down the A-Pillar like most would:
To get the 3 wires through that bend [A-Pillar / Headliner] you’re going to have to loosen the A-Pillar.  Pop this off:
Now Torx T-25 to loosen:
Now, in the next few steps we’ll remove some trim pieces to route the cables:
Remove weather stripping a bit:
And run all the way down, Run it under the lower plastic kick plate trim:
To pop off the front lower trim panel, simply insert tool of choice and pop it up.  Several plastic clips hold this in place:
And run the wire like this, you can just tuck it under the B-Pillar:
Meet them and make sure it works before final solder and heat shrink!!!.  You can see the heat shrink tubing on the wires, make sure you slide it on the wires before you solder them together:
Plug the toggle switch in to test it:
Once tested and you know all is working, solder the wires together and heat shrink the connections, then I took some electrical and taped all the wires together:
You end up with an OE look / style 3 Port Auxiliary Switch for your audio / video needs.  It my case because of the DSP module it is in DSP sound, NOT analog!!! My iPod sounds awesome, movies sound incredible and no more FM modulation for the XM:

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