BMW 740 Ninja 650 Other Stuff Contact Page FAQ & Legal

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I was due an oil change, so enclosed are the instructions for nothing more than a straight up oil change.  It's been so long [knock on wood] since I've had to do any maintenance I thought I'd forget how.  Nope, it all went off without a hitch.

Your mileage may vary on if you use jack stands or ramps, but I use stands because I don't have ramps, I don't want to store ramps and well why have ramps and stands...seems like a waste of money to me.

Parts: [Always verify your own parts]


  • 17 MM Socket For Drain Plug
  • 36 MM Socket or Filter Style Wrench For Filter Cover
  • Torque Wrench, IMO, You Gotta' Have This
  • Ratchet For Sockets
  • Phillips Head Screw Driver
  • Jack / Jack Stands OR Ramps
Please Click On Any Picture Below To Enlarge That Picture.
Tools awaiting their work:
My car sits a little low for the jack, so I have to run up on 2x6's before I can get the jack under the center main frame.

Like the basketweaves?!?!, I don't but they're what I ride in the winter months:

Put the jack under the main frame.  You really can't miss the puck that's there.  I place the jack dead center and lift the whole front end at once:
Now, with the stands I have I really have to get the front end way up in the air, so to make it a little less up in the air I take out the jack stand arms and just rest the cars jack pads right on the stands themselves:
Now remove the cover / flap to reveal the oil pan.  Simple 2 phillips head screws:
Let it hang:
And finally pull it off by sliding it out of the grooves where the tabs fit in:
Here's your oil drain plug:
Simply unbolt it using a 17 MM socket.  Righty-Tighty, Lefty-Loosey...:
Make sure you have your drain pan positioned properly, and let it flow:
Now you should have already popped the hood latch inside the cars cabin, so now pop the hood:
...and unscrew the oil filter housing cover.

You could use a filter wrench, strap wrench or the like, but I use a regular 36mm socket.  They can be had for ~$10, and the ability to torque it on the reinstall is priceless....

Once loose, pull it and and make sure you have a plan as to where you'll put it.  I double bag some plastic grocery bags, and set it in there for the time being.  Sorry 'bout the blur:
Like this:
Now let the oil drain for a while.  You can grab a beer, a coke, have a smoke....or whatever floats your boat while all the oil drains.

I personally move on to the next steps while it drains...:

Oil Filter housing minus the cap:
Now I wrap the filter in the bag and then pop it free:
Then using a screw driver or o-ring pick, remove the rubber o-ring from the filter cap:
Bring the cap over, clean it up and get ready to put the new o-ring on and oil filter in.  Here the box for the kit:
....and here's the kit:
Snap the filter in the cap.  Put the filter in the cap, line it up and snap the filter down to seat it in place:
Like this:
Now put the new crush ring, washer or whatever you want to call it on the drain plug:
Hand thread it as far as it will go:
....and then torque the bolt down.  I torque to about 19 ft. lbs and have never had a problem.  Check the specs yourself or trust your judgment....your call, not my problem if you strip it!:
Now clean up any excess oil around the bolt:
Put the lower cover on and tighten both phillips head screws:
Like so.................:
Nasty ass oil:
Now slide the o-ring on the oil filter cap carefully:
Like this:
All the way down to the groove it fits in:
Then take some clean oil [maybe from a new quart] and lightly spread a bead around it:
Then drop it in the oil filter canister:

***I don't "pre-oil" the filter, if you do or want to have at it.***

Screw it on hand tight:
Now torque it down, I use 19 ft. lbs.  Make note and be careful when apply the torque, there is a tendency to snap the oil filter housing rubber bump stops.  If you break them search my main BMW 740 page and you'll find the fix.  Yeah, I have snapped mine off....lol:
Now dump the new oil in, 8 quarts, lower the car and let it sit level for a few, then check the oil level...:
There you go, all done except resetting the service indicator lights.  Don't mind the dirty engine compartment, it is winter here.....:
Ok, resetting the service indicator lights?  You really have 3 options:
  • Buy a tool that will do it for you [waste of money]
  • Reset it in the engine compartment via the diagnostic port.
  • Reset it via the instrument cluster [speedo]

I've tried to reset it via a jumper wire in the engine compartment, but it just doesn't work, so fortunately for me I have to reset it via the instrument cluster.  I say fortunately because it really is easy!


If you want to try and reset it via the diagnostic port in the engine compartment, the pic indicates where it is and the description on how to do it is as follows:
  • With the ignition in the off position
  • Put a wire between pins 7 and 19.  The pins are labeled inside the cover
  • Now turn the ignition to position 2, the run position, but DO NOT start the engine.
  • After just a couple seconds in position 2, jump out and run over or have your helper remove the jumper wire.  If you wait eight to ten seconds, it will do an Inspection reset, which you may or may not want.  You do not want a full inspection reset if you ONLY changed the oil

To make your jumper cable, just take a piece of really think gauge wire and you can bend it in a "U" to match up with the pins.

Now, the easy way...
  • Ignition in OFF position
  • Press and Hold the trip odometer button [left button, see pic] while you turn the key to position 1
  • Keep the button depressed [about 5 secs] until you see "Oil Service" or "Inspection" with "Reset" or "Re" in the display
  • Let go of the button
  • Now press the button again and hold for approximately 5 secs. until "Reset" or "Re" flashes
  • Let go of the button
  • Now while the display is flashing, briefly press the button again to reset the Service Interval. After the display has shown the new interval you should see "END SIA" for about 2 secs
Now turn the key to the off position, start the car and your inspection lights should be reset:

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