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There is a chance that the oil pump bolts can come loose on these cars, although it's been documented that it is usually on 1998 and below, I didn't want to take any chances so I checked them while doing an oil change.



  • Ratchet

  • A Torque Wrench [I’m a stickler on this, and get a good one!]

  • Rubber Mallet

  • 10mm, 13mm and 17mm sockets

  • 36mm socket OR Oil filter strap wrench

  • Long, 20 inch or so, socket extension

  • Oil drain pan

  • Jack and Jacks Stands or Ramps

  • Small Boxes, tins or the like to put all the bolts, nuts and caps in.

  • Couple empty soup cans [these work great for cleaning nuts, bolts and caps]

PLEASE NOTE:  To See FULL Oil Change Instructions Click Here.

Please Click On Any Picture Below To Enlarge That Picture.
First get the car up on stands.  I jack the whole front end up at once here:
Then put it on stands.  Once you get the stands in position and the car lowered onto them, give the car a push side to side just to make sure it’s positioned properly on the jack stands and to make sure it’s sturdy:
Now remove the belly pan [ie. lower cover].  This is attached by a bunch of Phillips head screws:
Now we’re moving onto changing the oil, checking the oil pump bolts and changing the lower oil pan gasket. First, remove the 17 mm oil pan drain plug:
Then open up the cap on the oil filter canister, 36mm socket.
I prefer to use a wrench with socket, but your miles may vary.  Make sure you hold onto the canister as you crack it loose or you’ll probably be replacing the little rubber grommets that mount the canister to the bracket:
Now after ALL the oil has drained out, unplug the oil level sensor and start removing all these bolts.  Obviously don’t pour new oil in until you finish the oil pan gasket / oil pump bolt check:
You’ll find none of these bolts to be very tight, so I worked my way around them to crack them loose them took my drill with attachment to remove them.  After the bolts are removed the oil pan will not just fall off.  I had to take my rubber mallet and tap it lightly, but be careful because when it breaks loose it can make a mess.  I had a plastic garbage bag under to catch any mess, but I was fortunate that I tapped with my mallet while holding the pan and it just dropped in my hand:
Here’s what it looks like with the oil pan removed:
NOTE:  I did not remove the oil pump bolts and then reinstall them, I just made sure they were tight.  Early model 740’s have been known for these to be loose so I thought I would check mine, none of them were loose.  Remove this plastic cover, 13mm nuts if I’m remembering correctly and slide the cover off:
Here is the plastic cover removed:
Here I’m checking 1 of 3 bolts.  I torque'd these to roughly 14-16 ft. lbs.:
Pull off the old gasket, clean any residue that it left, then clean out the oil pan.  Put the new gasket on, align it properly and get ready to install.  I aligned the new gasket, put 2 bolts in just finger tight and made sure the gasket was aligned properly while starting to secure the rest of the bolts:
Now that the pan is reinstalled, put the drain plug with new crush ring in and torque properly, put in the new oil filter with new O-Ring grab your 8 quarts of oil. 
And start pouring it in the oil fill.



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